From Sacred waters to secret lights
Oguta has a way of arriving quietly in the heart. It does not announce itself with skyscrapers or traffic horns; it breathes through water, palms, and the patient rhythm of boats cutting across the lake. I arrived on a harmattan-soft morning, when the sky looked rinsed and the air carried the smell of wet earth. Oguta Lake lay ahead, wide and reflective, its surface holding the early light like a secret. I had come for rest—at least that was the plan. Love, I believed then, was something that happened elsewhere.
The lodge by the lake sat low and unassuming, shaded by coconut trees. Fishermen pushed out before dawn, their oars dipping with a practiced grace. By mid-morning, the town began to stir: women with baskets of smoked fish, children skidding barefoot along the sandy paths, the occasional motorbike coughing past with a sack of cassava flour tied to its back. I walked the shoreline, counting ripples, thinking of nothing and everything at once.
That was where I met Amara.
She stood near a cluster of boats, arguing gently with a boatman about the price of a short ride. Her laughter carried first—unforced, quick, like the lake itself when the wind teased it. When she turned, there was an ease to her presence that felt familiar, as if we had been introduced by the place. We shared the boat ride, sitting opposite each other as the engine hummed and the water widened around us. Oguta’s stories unfolded in her voice: the seasonal floods that link the lake to the Niger, the old hotel ruins that once hosted dignitaries, the festivals that stitched the town together. She spoke as someone who listened to places before speaking about them.
We spent the afternoon drifting between small islands, stopping where the water grew shallow enough to see reeds swaying beneath the surface. There was no urgency—only the kind of conversation that finds its own pace. By evening, we sat at a roadside spot near the lake, eating pepper soup as the sun folded itself into copper. When the generator kicked on and the lights flickered, it felt like a promise rather than an interruption.
Amara told me she worked in Warri, coordinating logistics for a small energy firm. I mentioned that my travels were beginning to feel like a habit I couldn’t shake. We parted with a simple agreement to keep in touch, neither of us naming what had begun. Oguta, patient as ever, let us leave with the calm confidence that what starts on water doesn’t rush.
Warri arrived like a drumbeat. Heat rose from the pavement, and the air buzzed with motion. The city leaned into its contradictions—oil wealth and roadside traders, glossy offices and creeks that carried stories older than any pipeline. When I visited Amara there weeks later, she met me at Effurun Roundabout, the traffic swirling around us like a living thing. She navigated it with practiced assurance, laughing at my wide-eyed reactions.
We walked along the Warri River promenade in the late afternoon, the water darker here, purposeful. Boats moved with cargo and intent, and the smell of roasted corn mingled with diesel. She showed me Nana Living History Museum, where artifacts whispered of Itsekiri royalty and resilience. In the quiet halls, our steps slowed. We read placards aloud, sometimes correcting each other, sometimes falling silent together.
Evenings in Warri were full-bodied. We ate banga soup thick with palm fruit, the spice warming us from the inside. At a small café near Okumagba Avenue, we lingered over cold drinks while the city throbbed outside. It was here that our affection found words—not dramatic declarations, but careful sentences placed between sips and smiles. We talked about work that stretched us thin, about families that anchored us, about the fear of loving while moving.
Warri tested us with its pace. Plans bent; meetings ran late. Yet we found pockets of stillness—sunset by the river, early morning walks when the city had not yet fully woken. Love here learned to keep its balance, to stand steady amid noise.
Then Gombe called, as calls often do, without apology. A project pulled me north, and distance stretched like a new map between us. The road to Gombe rose into different colors—greens fading into browns, air thinning into clarity. The city surprised me with its openness. Hills framed the horizon, and the evenings cooled quickly, the sky turning a deep, thoughtful blue.
Gombe felt contemplative. I visited the Emir’s Palace, its walls holding quiet authority, and walked the grounds of Gombe State University, where students debated futures with an optimism that felt contagious. At Tula, the ancient hill settlement, stone steps carried me upward, each turn offering a wider view. Standing there, wind pressing against my ears, I understood something about patience.
Amara and I learned new rituals. We shared sunsets over voice notes, traded photographs of meals and streets, described weather like it was a shared secret. She sent me a picture of the Warri River catching the evening light; I replied with the shadow of the hills at dusk. Love in Gombe became deliberate—built from attention, from choosing to remain present when presence required effort.
When she visited, the city welcomed her gently. We walked through the central market, colors stacked high: spices, fabrics, grains. We tasted kunu by the roadside, laughed at our clumsy attempts at local greetings, and drove toward the hills as evening settled. There was a simplicity to those days, a stripping away of excess. In Gombe, love learned to listen more than it spoke.
Lagos came last, as it often does—unavoidable, unignorable. The city arrived in waves: traffic that pulsed like a heartbeat, buildings that leaned toward the sky, the Atlantic pressing its vastness against the edge. We moved here almost at the same time, pulled by opportunities that promised growth and demanded resilience.
Lagos tested everything. It demanded time, energy, and a sense of humor. We learned its routes by heart: the early escape to avoid Third Mainland Bridge at peak hours, the quiet backstreets of Yaba, the sudden calm of Ikoyi in the mornings. On weekends, we found our breath again at Tarkwa Bay, where the city’s roar softened into surf and laughter. We walked barefoot, collecting shells, letting the horizon remind us of scale.
We explored Freedom Park, where history and leisure shared space, and lingered at the National Museum, tracing Nigeria’s story through bronze and wood. In Lekki, we watched the sun sink into the Atlantic, the sky breaking into orange and violet. Sometimes we said little, letting the city’s enormity settle around us.
Lagos sharpened our love. It asked for clarity: What do you keep when everything else demands your attention? We learned to schedule joy, to protect small rituals—a midweek dinner, a shared playlist for traffic, morning messages before the day scattered us. Love here was not loud; it was consistent.
One evening, stuck in traffic near the Lagoon, the city glowing around us, Amara reached for my hand. It was an ordinary gesture, almost lost amid honking horns and street vendors weaving between cars. Yet it carried the weight of all the places that had shaped us. Oguta’s calm, Warri’s rhythm, Gombe’s patience, Lagos’s insistence—they converged in that moment.
Travel had not diluted love; it had refined it. Each place had taught us something essential. Oguta showed us how to begin gently. Warri taught us to stand firm amid motion. Gombe taught us the strength of quiet commitment. Lagos taught us endurance and choice.
We still move. We always will. But now, wherever the road bends—whether toward water, dust, or light—we carry a shared map. And in that map, every city is not just a destination, but a chapter in a story that continues to write itself, one deliberate step at a time.
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